by Michael Eiseman, your guide to Argentina

"Explorer chic" is the only way I can describe this very remote boomtown gearing up for the sophisticated adventurer. The visit to the glaciers in southern Patagonia rivals my visit to Iguazu Falls in terms of ecology and the sheer size of seeing Gods work at his or her best. There is a definite moon-like scenescape east of El Calafate reminiscent of parts of New Zealand; huge open landscapes with desert like vegetation, and in contrast, just turn west and everything changes facing Chile and the Andes, with beech trees, snow capped mountains and remarkable glaciers.

Weather you're a hardcore trekker looking for a glacier hike or just a sightseer yearning to see glaciers from the comfort of a vip suite from a tour boat while sipping a fine Malbec, Calafate is a great 2-3 day excursion. The Southern Patagonian Ice corresponds to Argentina and Chile and the glaciers, of which the easiest to access are the Perito Moreno and the Upsala, 2 of 365 glaciers in the national park. Its funny how in South America people always count things to exactly 365 so they can say for the sake of tourism that there is  one for each day of the year. In Brazil near Rio they have 365 islands in Angra bay. You guessed it one for every... yada yada.

I suggest traveling in the spring or fall because winter is too cold and large crowds and windy days make the summer months a bit overbearing, remember Dec thru Feb is their summer, opposite from the northern hemisphere. The town of El Calafate is a booming town doubling its size each 2/3 years. I guess the old west towns would be similar. There is a main street with banks, shops, bars, coffee shops and restaurants. It has an excellent vibe: Argentineans are warm and friendly people, especially outside Buenos Aires, and the rest are tourists having a great time.

The small village of EL Chalten, which lies at the foot of the legendry mountain Fitz Roy is the starting point for walking enthusiasts and climbers to enjoy the breathtaking views and walks in this extraordinary beautiful mountain landscape.

While in Patagonia you must try the lamb (out of this world), chocolates, alfajores (the best brand is Bambi), ice-creams and the Calafate liquor and jams are good too (made from the berries of the calafate bush). All the Hotels in the area are new and surprising sophisticated for such a small, remote town. The level of cuisine, wines and service you wouldn't find in Northern Canada or Alaska.

The following Hotels were truly unique and special, and the most exclusive and they all offer different advantages all worthy of being considered the best of the Lago Argentino region. It you go in high season you may have to settle for a different hotel in town. Surprisingly, we didn't see a huge sacrifice or drop in accommodations in these other properties. They too had great service, tasteful décor and good food and wines and being in town has its advantages and disadvantages depending on the traveler:

Los Notros - Only hotel in the Glacier Park. Breathtaking views of Perito Moreno Glacier from every room. They offer an all inclusive package that really pays off when you consider the great chef prepared food and the little extras they include. This and Los Cerros in El Chalten are the furthest from town, about 45 mins. But the closest views of the glaciers are seen by sightseeing boats for the best advantage. More

Eolo - This unique ranch-style lodge is between the town and the Perito Moreno glacier in a vast large open land (within a 3000 hectare private estate) with wind-swept steppe, mountain peaks where condors soar, and vast stretches of nothing where you can dream, and leave civilization behind. Eolo is a unique property, which embodies the spirit of Patagonia. The lodge itself has been built in local style using traditional materials and has the feel of a comfortable estancia with just 17 ensuite rooms, each with stunning views of Lago Argentino, Torres del Paine or Brazo Rico. They offer all inclusive accommodations, thank God because most don't return to town once you're out in the mountains. More

Los Sauces - This is the best hotel in the town of El Calafate and well located around restaurants and shops. The arrangement of large rooms in clusters of private homes adds to the homey feel of this property. It's designed by the owner who also happens to be the former first wife of the President of Argentina and by the time you read this she will be the president herself, a bit Clinton like in theory, but if her taste in interior design is any example, she will do just fine as the leader of the great country of Argentina. The chef Ramiro Rodrigues is one of the top chefs in South America and the menu is out of this world. He is both creative and charming with is dishes, a true treasure in this remote slice of heaven. More

Excursions - Since the excursions take all day long, you will eat late at your hotels and if you are staying in town remember that the restaurants fill quickly and after 8.30 you'll have to wait. And beware of the time; in Calafate sunset is really late (in summer past 11pm) and you'll think it's not dinnertime. We ate at Ricks (all you can eat "asado"), great meat and really cheap, even including wine; and at Mi Viejo, very good too (try the hare). For lunch is advised to bring your "picnic bag". There are two big supermarkets, but I'd recommend buying "empanadas" or sandwiches for your day out near the glaciers.

We recommend not missing the All glaciers boat ride, the Perito Moreno balconies, Perito Moreno South Face Boat tour and a horse ride near the Argentinean Lake. The All glaciers boat ride Is a all day tour starting at 9am and ends at 4pm and is operated by the Fernandez Cambell company which owns all the boats in the Porto Bandaras. You will transfer by bus from your hotel to the Port, and then you are transferred to a big catamaran motorboat with 300-person capacity. You sail the lake to visit 2 glaciers, Upsala and Spegazzini, and you debark at lunchtime to visit the Onelli glacier. While on the lake you are surrounded by icebergs. This is the highlight of the trip and was quite impressive and worth it. The costs was about $75 per person for the coach area and up to double for the special VIP captain's cabin with seats double the size of the main cabin.

Minitrekking (about 10 hrs): If you only have time or money to do one excursion take this one. You are transferred by bus to National Park; there you take a boat to the Perito Moreno glacier base camp and after gearing up with crampons you walk on the glacier for about 2/3 hours ending with a toast: your ice will be older than your whiskey. After that you'll have lunch, take the boat back to mainland and have 2 hours to walk the catwalks overseeing the glacier. The cost was about $110 per person. It's a once in a lifetime experience. Do it.

El Calafate is a special excursion that is worth the 3 hour flight from Buenos Aires and 2-3 nights are enough to explore the surrounding area. Feel free to call me personally to discuss your trip to Argentina and Southern Patagonia. It would be my pleasure to plan your journey of a lifetime.

Feel free to contact me personally if you wish to discuss this destination at 800.772.9188.